Part Two in a Series The Quest for Everest: Overcoming Altitude Challenges to Reach New Heights

In my relentless pursuit to become the first Afghan to summit Mount Everest and support the Afghan Peaks foundation, acclimatization takes center stage. As elevation increases, atmospheric pressure decreases, resulting in lower oxygen levels and making every breath a challenge. At sea level, like in Swarthmore, we enjoy around 21% oxygen, but at 15,000 feet, it drops to 11.8%, and at the pinnacle of Everest, a staggering 29,032 feet, a mere 6.9% oxygen is available. Oxygen is vital for our bodies, particularly our brains and motor functions. It's common to experience symptoms of altitude sickness or Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) as we ascend. Some readers may have encountered altitude sickness while skiing in the Rockies.

Among the various forms of AMS, High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE) and High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE) pose the greatest danger. HAPE leads to fluid accumulation in the lungs, causing breathlessness even during rest. On the other hand, HACE involves brain swelling, resulting in fatigue and altered mental states. Both conditions can prove fatal if left untreated. To combat these risks, descending to lower altitudes is the primary and most crucial treatment. Avoiding AMS, especially the lifethreatening variations, stands as one of my primary objectives.

Altitude has always posed a challenge for me. During my initial ascent of Mont Blanc, I encountered multiple symptoms of altitude sickness at a modest 15,774 feet. My attempt to climb Kilimanjaro was cut short due to AMS caused by ascending too rapidly. Though I fared better on Denali, extreme nausea plagued me at the 17,000-foot camp, and adjusting to 14,000 feet proved arduous. With this in mind, I knew that adapting my body for Everest would present a significant hurdle.

Our Everest plan involves an “Everest Flash,” condensing the typical six to eight-week climbing schedule into three weeks. The key to achieving this lies in preacclimatization using a specially designed tent and generator that reduces oxygen levels while I sleep. The strategy entails starting at an oxygen equivalent to roughly 5,000 feet and gradually progressing over two months to a simulated altitude of 21,000 feet within the tent. This approach ensures comfort at base camp (17,500 feet) and swift adaptation to camp 2 (advanced base camp or ABC) situated at 21,000 feet.

Due to the generator's noise, I relocated to the guest bedroom, which posed its own challenge. Navigating a narrow, antiquated Swarthmore staircase, I hauled the 70-pound generator to the third floor. While sleeping on a regular bed, I enclose my head and chest in a small tent. The generator helps warm the room, and the winter and early spring season is advantageous in this regard. As I ascend in altitude, nighttime breathing becomes increasingly difficult, and I occasionally awaken due to insufficient oxygen delivery. To occupy myself during these times, I rely on a couple of Netflix series. Even when I manage to sleep, I notice my heart rate elevated in the 80s rather than the typical 40s, causing me stress upon waking. This affects my workouts, as basebuilding exercises should be done at a low heart rate. Discussing this issue with my guide, he emphasizes the significance of acclimatization over marginal fitness gains.

Before settling down for the night, I measure my heart rate and SP02 (blood oxygen saturation). Upon waking in the morning, while still in the tent, I test these measurements again. Outside the tent, my SP02 hovers around 98 or 99, but inside the tent, it gradually drops. Starting from the low 90s at lower altitudes, it progressively declines into the 80s, 70s, and even the 60s. The goal is to avoid letting SP02 dip below 80, but we continue ascending despite the reduction as long as I can sleep. Having been diagnosed with thalassemia minor in childhood — a mutation providing defense against malaria — I experience slightly misshapen hemoglobin, causing the body to eliminate it faster. While this trait aids in flushing out malaria, it hinders hemoglobin production. Acclimatization encompasses various adaptations, and although my hemoglobin development may be weak, I hope that my athletic fitness and success in other adaptations will compensate.

As we embark on the next stage of acclimatization in Nepal, we undertake one high rotation on a mountain: climbing Mera Peak, standing at approximately 6,400 meters. Here, I meet the rest of the team, including Lazlo from Munich, Germany; Martina from Innsbruck, Austria; Ardovan from Iran, residing in Crans Montana, Switzerland; Peter from Shanghai, China; and Julien from Vancouver, Canada. It's an intriguing mix of nationalities and experiences, united by a shared goal of conquering Everest.

The Mera Peak ascent begins as a trekking route, with us journeying from one small village to another up the valley. Along the way, we find respite in modest hotels that offer tea, meals, and rooms. Although the accommodations lack luxury, they provide shelter and save us from carrying our own food. Each day entails hiking to a new location, incorporating an acclimatization hike that involves ascending another 200 meters before returning to sleep. Eventually, lodges become scarce, and we trek all the way up to high camp at 5,850 meters. Nestled behind a colossal boulder on a rocky ridge, our tents become our refuge. Unfortunately, one team member suffers from altitude sickness and remains at the lodge while we forge ahead.

Upon reaching high camp, I don't feel at my best, but the following day, limited visibility forces us to embark on a short walk, inadvertently improving my acclimatization. On the second day, we brave challenging weather conditions and push toward the summit of Mera Peak — a grueling journey through snow and near-zero visibility. The Sherpas attempt to dissuade us and cancel the hike three times, yet armed with GPS, our Austrian guides ensure we stay on track. Crossing precarious crevasses on narrow snow bridges, climbers and Sherpas occasionally slip, narrowly avoiding disaster. Nonetheless, we persevere, triumphantly reaching the summit of Mera Peak, marking the first Afghan ascent. A photo opportunity with the Afghan Peaks flag commemorates this achievement. Upon retracing our steps, we discover our tracks buried beneath fresh snow, relying on GPS once more to navigate our course. We return to high camp, now blanketed in snow, and spend an additional night acclimatizing at this elevated location. This marks three consecutive nights at an altitude higher than Everest base camp — a source of great excitement for me. Comparing my experience summiting Mera Peak in just six days without falling ill to the 20-day struggle on Denali, I attribute my success to the true value of the 420 hours spent in the Hypoxico tent for acclimatization.

Subsequently, we descend to the highest village and take a helicopter to base camp, where the elevation of 17,500 feet feels surprisingly comfortable, accompanied by satisfying meals. In contrast, at 17 camp on Denali, even after extensive acclimatization, I could hardly eat. Now, all that remains is to await a favorable weather window for the five-day climb to the summit of Everest, followed by a day to return, completing a six-day round trip. Since we have already acclimatized to 21,000 feet, we can rely on supplemental oxygen to tackle the remaining 8,000 feet. While we won't achieve complete acclimatization for 29,000 feet—an almost insurmountable feat for most humans—we can use oxygen to make the last stretch possible.

My drive and motivation for scaling Everest stem from supporting my foundation, Afghan Peaks, dedicated to the development of Afghan mountains in terms of sports, safety, and nature preservation. It is this unwavering commitment to witnessing progress in Afghanistan that propels me forward, enabling me to surmount the challenges of acclimatization. If you wish to support Afghan Peaks, you can do so at afghanpeaks.org.

Sam Sidiqi and the team summitting Mera Peak with the Afghan Peaks flag.*