Journey to Everest: Preparing for the Ultimate Climb

In this latest installment of my journey to become the first Afghan to summit Everest, I delve into the crucial role of experience in the mountains and share insights about life at Everest Base Camp (EBC).

Originally planned as a three-part series, unexpected weather conditions extended our stay at base camp, providing an opportunity to share more about the Everest experience.

Experience in the mountains is paramount, as it enhances speed, reduces mistakes, and minimizes stress. The ability to move swiftly and efficiently while properly using equipment like crampons and ascenders is essential. Speed not only helps combat the cold weather but also allows for quicker progress to rest stops. Avoiding mistakes is critical; a misstep with safety clips or incorrect rope order can lead to severe consequences. Moreover, managing stress levels is crucial, as encountering new challenges like steep drops or snow bridges can impact performance. Undertaking prior climbs is essential to develop these skills before tackling a colossal mountain like Everest.

My journey began with a mountaineering climb on Breithorn in Zermatt, Switzerland, which taught me valuable lessons about altitude, equipment, and preparation. Further climbs in the European Alps, including Mont Blanc and Matterhorn, strengthened my climbing skills, exposure to various terrains, and adaptability to changing temperatures. However, these experiences only partially prepared me for the unique demands of big mountain climbing, which involves camping in extreme cold conditions with different gear requirements.

To bridge the gap, I embarked on winter camping expeditions, such as ascending Mount Washington in freezing temperatures. These ventures honed my skills in managing heavy packs, setting up tents, and coping with extreme cold. The pinnacle of my training was the challenging climb up Denali, which tested my endurance and resilience in harsh conditions while employing new techniques like ascenders and running protection. Lessons learned from a failed attempt to climb Kilimanjaro further shaped my understanding of weather, equipment, and technical skills.

And now, Everest beckons. While some guides recommended ascending other peaks before attempting Everest, my guide deemed my experiences sufficient. Physically, Everest is less demanding than Denali due to the assistance of high-altitude porters and the relatively comfortable conditions at EBC. However, technical climbing, prolonged exposure, and the sheer height make it an extraordinary challenge.

At EBC, our diverse international group comes together, representing different nations and backgrounds. We focus on staying prepared for the climb, although the presence of a persistent jet stream has delayed our departure. This extra time allows for meticulous preparation, fitness hikes, acclimatization, and exploring the breathtaking surroundings.

To ensure readiness, we practice using ascenders, figure 8s, and crossing ladders with rope protection in the ice towers near base camp. We also familiarize ourselves with oxygen systems and optimize our ascent gear, wearing down suits to understand layering and functionality. Staying fit is a priority, with hikes ranging from walking through EBC to reaching lookout points like Pumori Camp 1 and Kala Patthar, which contribute to our acclimatization.

While some team members take breaks or attend personal commitments, I choose to remain at base camp to maximize my time at altitude and strengthen my acclimatization. Limited internet connectivity allows me to share updates and communicate with family, while evenings are spent watching movies like The Revenant or immersing myself in Edmund Hillary's account of his historic Everest ascent.

Base camp life revolves around our shared focus on the mountain, with little attention to outside news or sports. My unwavering dedication to supporting my foundation, Afghan Peaks, which promotes sports, safety, and nature preservation in Afghanistan, fuels my drive to succeed. If you would like to support Afghan Peaks, please visit afghanpeaks.org.

As the days unfold and we patiently await favorable weather conditions, Everest continues to test our resolve. The pinnacle of this journey draws nearer, and with it, the opportunity to make history and inspire others.